Spain (2001)

 

mid July 2001

Barcelona

Arrived at the airport quiet late after a good flight from Heathrow. I had booked a cheap hotel over the Internet, but had no idea where it was, luckily the taxi driver managed to drop us of close by. The place looked OK over the Internet, quiet a bargain I thought, but it was in a noisy side street of La Rambla and the walls super thin, so not much sleep for the next few nights.

The three days we had in Barcelona were mainly spend walking around town (hot) or taking the very easy to use metro to further away places. I guess we did the usual touristy stuff, visiting La Sagrada Familia (huge church that has been in construction since 1882, nowhere near finished, definitely recommend going up inside the narrow towers for superb views over the city), Park Guell, various other buildings that have been created by Gaudi, walking through the narrow streets in the Gothic quarter and having lots of cool drinks to avoid heatstroke in between. Alison was not to keen on the Spanish food (not ideal for vegetarians) so we ended up having Pizzas most nights.

We did spend a lot of time on the beach as well, not because it was a particularly nice beach, but more because we had both not seen the sea for a while and were keen on getting tanned up.

I liked Barcelona, but was not overly excited by it. As always in big cities the locals we got in touch with were friendly but it was obvious they had been dealing with a whole load of tourists for too many years. So I was quiet happy move on after a few days, and, after an old friend of mine who happened to be in Barcelona at the same time managed to get us some tickets we go on the train down to Seville.

Seville

Seville, Alison and I agreed after the trip, was the favorite city we visited in Spain. The town centre, where most of the budget hotels are, is a collection of a number of small steets, leading to the impressive Cathedral in the centre. There are literally hundred of small cafes and tapas bars to choose from and the pace of live seems a lot slower than inn Barcelona. We spent 2 days walking around town, visiting the old palace, strolling down to the river and having nice, cheap meals. There is a bull fighting stadium as well but we both agreed not to see it.

Marbella

Alison had been told that Marbella was, or used to be, a favoured holiday destination of the rich and famous, however I think she got it slightly wrong. It was my first time at the Costa del Sol but it was pretty much as I had expected, completely built up with large apartment blocks along the beach, overpriced restaurants and loads of tourists. It was not all that bad, the tourists were not of the English hooligan type, and we found a very nice place in the old centre of Marbella to stay, and the beach though busy, was quiet nice and we had a few short swims.

Granada

From Marbella we took the bus to Granada, no hassle, and got picked up by some guy at the bus station who brought us to a cheap hotel in town. The place turned out to be a bit of a disappointment, the room was hot, the fan not nearly strong enough, and the bed terrible, but is was only for two nights. The lesson learnt though, is that even with one and two star hotels there are some that are a lot better than others and it is better to trust the guide bokk (Lonely Planet in our case) than to just go and have a gamble. The 2 places we chose without a guidebook (Barcelona and Granada) were not nearly as nice as the one recommended by LP in Seville and Marbella.

The rest of the day we spent just wandering around town. Granada is in many ways similar to Seville, again losts of historic buildings, small streets and lots of places to eat, but it felt bigger, dirtier and busier. Also it was quiet hot and we decided to go back to the hotel for a littel fiesta, but unfortunately completly lost our way in the identical looking streets that lead away from the town centre. We eventually found our street and had a good few hours sleep before setting out for a late dinner.

The next day we went up to Al Hambra, the famous old Roman then Muslim fortress that overlooks Granada. It is quiet impressive and we spend a good few hours wandering around the several different buildings, towers and castles that make up the monument.

The rest of the day we spent wandering around town some more, including the Albayzin area, the old Muslim quaters, which was nice as only a few yards after leaving the busy main street one is surrounded by incredibly old looking buildings with hardly a soul in sight.

We also went into the big Cathedral in the town centre, which was in the process of being renovated but still impressive.

Cabo De Gata

We were not sure where to go next, with another 6 days or so of our two week holiday to go. Alison wanted a beachy place and so we decided to go to San Jose, a small village in the Cabo De Gata national park, next to Almeria in the very south-east of Andalusia. Getting there was not straight forward as there are only about 2 buses there form Almeria a day, but we managed to get on one after a 3 hour train ride from Granada to Almeria.

A constant worry for me had been accommodation, as the Lonely Planet warns that there is a shortage of rooms in July/ August as the Spanish all head to the beaches. Again this prooved not to be the case as we found a very nice place right next to the bus stop in the centre of the village. Newly decorated, with TV, aircon and fridge!, this was a complete bargain at at around £25 and we decided to stay here for the next few days.

San Jose is a very chilled out place, basically a long beach with almost crystal clear warm water, a number of small cheapish hotels and a number of Spanish and Italian restaurants. We had a lazy couple of days, reading, swimming and sunbathing a lot, with me dreaming about crazy Internet ideas. As there was no public transport further into the Cabo De Gata national park we could not go and explore, but what we saw did look very promising is certainly worth a return trip.

Back Home

The journey back to the UK went pretty smoothly, we got the train form Almeria to Seville (6 hours) and the the overnight train from Seville to Barcelona (12 hours). We had another night in Barcelona, so we checked back into our old hotel, went down to the beach for a while and did some last minute shopping before flying back to the UK.

Spain was good, though I did not get that 'let'smove here' feeling that I sometimes get when I really like a place. I do want to go back though and try some of the more remote locations, and, if possible walk the GR10, Gr11 or High Route along the Pyrenees.

 

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